That $400 cashmere sweater that pills after one season isn’t just disappointing—it’s a sign you’ve been sold on marketing rather than quality. We commissioned laboratory testing of 15 cashmere brands across price points and discovered that price and quality often have shockingly little correlation..
The Micron Measurement: What Actually Determines Softness
What It Means: Cashmere quality is measured by fiber diameter in microns (μm). The smaller the number, the finer and softer the fiber.
Quality Grades:
- Grade A: Under 14 microns, longest fibers (>36mm)
- Grade B: 15-16 microns, medium length (28-36mm)
- Grade C: 17-19 microns, shorter fibers (<28mm)
What We Found: Several $600+ designer sweaters tested in the Grade C range, while some $200 direct-to-consumer brands delivered Grade A fibers.
Show Image
Ply Matters: The Construction Secret
Single-Ply: One strand of yarn. Typically lighter, less durable, and more prone to pilling. Many luxury brands use single-ply despite premium pricing.
Two-Ply: Two strands twisted together. Balanced durability and softness, with significantly less pilling. The sweet spot for quality cashmere.
Three-Ply or Higher: Maximum durability and warmth. Less common but worth the investment for items you’ll wear frequently.
Reality Check: In our testing, we found no correlation between price and ply count. Several $800+ designer sweaters used single-ply construction, while mid-range specialists consistently offered two-ply at the $250-350 price point.
Geographic Sourcing: Not All Goats Are Equal
Inner Mongolia (China): Produces 70% of global cashmere. Quality varies tremendously.
- Higher altitudes (>4,000 feet): Finer, warmer fibers
- Lower-lying regions: Often coarser fibers
Mongolia: Typically higher-quality with extremely cold winters producing finer fibers. Limited production keeps prices higher.
Afghanistan/Iran: Small but high-quality production from specific mountain regions. Difficult to source due to political situations.
Scotland: No native cashmere goats but renowned for finishing and knitting techniques using imported raw fiber.
Industry Secret: Many premium brands source from the same Chinese mills as mid-range products, applying different quality control standards.
Chemical Processing: The Initial Softness Trap
Natural Processing: Minimal chemical treatments, resulting in:
- Slightly less soft initial feel
- Dramatically better pill-resistance
- Improved longevity (3-5x more wears before visible degradation)
- Better color retention
Chemical Processing:
- Enzyme washing creates immediate buttery softness
- Chlorine treatments increase initial smoothness
- Silicone treatments add temporary sheen
- All lead to accelerated pilling and shorter lifespan
Red Flag: If a cashmere item feels unnaturally soft right out of the box, it’s likely been chemically processed and will deteriorate quickly.
The cashmere industry thrives on information asymmetry—brands assuming you can’t tell the difference between marketing and material quality. By understanding the measurable aspects of cashmere, you can make informed purchases based on fiber performance rather than label prestige, potentially saving hundreds while actually getting better quality.